How Things Work in Peru

Service charge (servicio) is sometimes added to restaurant bills in Lima and tourist areas, so inspect the bill before tipping. At upscale and tourist-oriented restaurants, 10% is standard when not included. Guides and porters on treks such as the Inca Trail depend heavily on tips — 50–100 PEN per day for guides and 30–50 PEN for porters is appropriate. Hotel porters, housekeeping, and taxi drivers appreciate small tips but they are not obligatory.

In Lima, the Metropolitano BRT and Metro Line 1 are the safest and cheapest options for getting around; Uber, InDriver, and Cabify are strongly preferred over street taxis. For intercity travel, Cruz del Sur and Oltursa operate reliable, comfortable overnight buses between major cities. Trains to Machu Picchu (Peru Rail and Inca Rail) are the only motorised access to the site and must be booked weeks or months in advance, especially for high season. Domestic flights with LATAM, Sky Airline, and Viva Air cover long distances quickly but book early for best fares.

Clínica Anglo Americana and Clínica San Borja in Lima provide international-standard private care and have English-speaking staff. Outside Lima, facilities drop off sharply, and emergency evacuation from highland or jungle areas can be extremely expensive without insurance. Altitude sickness (soroche) affects many visitors in Cusco, Lake Titicaca, and on highland treks — rest for 24–48 hours upon arrival, stay hydrated, and drink coca tea to ease symptoms. Travel insurance that explicitly covers altitude-related illness and medical evacuation is essential for any trip beyond Lima.

Peru is a major cocaine-producing country and authorities treat any drug possession with great seriousness, including for tourists; sentences can mean years in Peruvian prisons. Coca leaves in their natural form are entirely legal — they are a traditional Andean product used for tea and chewing — but processed derivatives are illegal. Machu Picchu enforces strict rules: drones are prohibited, visitors must stay on marked paths, and entry is by timed slot only (morning or afternoon). Respecting archaeological sites nationwide is legally required; removing artefacts carries criminal penalties.

The National Police (PNP) emergency line is 105 and they have a tourist police unit (Policía de Turismo) in major cities including Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa. The ambulance service (SAMU) is reached on 117, though response times outside Lima can be slow. iPeru (0800-11-0000, toll-free) is specifically for tourists and has English-speaking operators who can assist with emergencies, complaints, and information 24 hours a day. In serious medical situations in remote areas, your travel insurance emergency line will often be faster than the national ambulance service.

Peru's diverse geography means packing for multiple climates: Lima and the coast are mild and casual, the highlands (Cusco, Lake Titicaca) are cold at night year-round, and the Amazon is hot and humid with heavy rain. Churches and religious sites require covered shoulders and knees — a light scarf or shawl is handy. In Andean indigenous communities, dress respectfully and conservatively as a mark of cultural sensitivity. Temperatures in Cusco can drop below freezing at night even in the dry season, so layering is essential regardless of when you visit.

The minimum legal drinking age is 18 and ID may be checked at bars and clubs in Lima. Pisco, a grape brandy, is Peru's national drink and the Pisco Sour its signature cocktail — trying a well-made one is a rite of passage. Local beers Cusqueña and Cristal are widely available and inexpensive. Chicha de jora (a fermented corn beer, mildly alcoholic) is a traditional highland drink offered in homes and local eateries, often served in communal cups; chicha morada is a delicious non-alcoholic purple corn drink safe for everyone.

Peru's markets — including San Pedro Market in Cusco, Pisac Market in the Sacred Valley, and craft markets in Lima's Miraflores district — are the prime places to negotiate prices. Start at roughly half the asking price and settle somewhere in between; the process should be friendly and good-natured. Vendors in tourist areas are persistent but generally not aggressive. Fixed-price restaurants, supermarkets, and established shops do not negotiate, and attempting to bargain there is awkward.

Most of Peru's landscapes, ruins, and public spaces are freely photographable. Machu Picchu has specific rules: drones are strictly prohibited (they will be confiscated), and you must stay on marked paths — do not climb on structures for a shot. In highland and Andean communities, photographing people — especially those wearing traditional clothing — without asking is considered disrespectful; many will agree to a photo and may politely ask for a small payment (1–2 PEN), which is fair. Some sacred ceremonies and Catholic church interiors prohibit photography; look for signs or ask.

Most major tourist attractions, museums, and restaurants in Lima and Cusco operate normally on Sundays and public holidays. Government offices, banks, and many businesses close on Sundays and national holidays. Local markets in Andean communities can be busiest on specific days — Pisac market is best on Sunday morning and Chinchero on Sunday as well. Peru has numerous national holidays (Fiestas Patrias on 28–29 July being the biggest) when transport books up and accommodation prices surge.

Lima has a well-documented problem with pirate taxis and express kidnapping (secuestro al paso), where victims are robbed and sometimes harmed after entering unofficial vehicles. Uber, InDriver, Cabify, and the Beat app are safe, tracked alternatives and are widely available across Lima. In Cusco, Arequipa, and other cities, apps are less common but official yellow and orange taxis are generally safe if you negotiate the fare before entering. At airports, only use official pre-paid taxi counters inside the terminal building — never accept offers from people approaching you in arrivals.

Tap water across all of Peru is unsafe for drinking and even brushing teeth with tap water can cause illness for travellers without local immunity. Always buy sealed bottled water or purify water using tablets, a UV pen, or a reliable filter. At high altitude, your body dehydrates faster than at sea level — aim to drink at least 3–4 litres per day in Cusco and on treks. Trekkers on the Inca Trail should carry water purification tablets as the only reliable source of safe water in remote sections.

Peru remains heavily cash-dependent outside Lima's upscale districts — markets, local restaurants, taxis, and small guesthouses almost always require cash. BCP, BBVA, and Interbank ATMs accept most international cards with the lowest failure rates; fees per withdrawal apply. Counterfeit soles (especially 50 PEN notes) circulate; inspect notes carefully and reject any that feel unusual. Carrying some US dollars as a backup is wise as they are widely accepted in tourist areas and some businesses quote prices in USD.

Claro has the strongest signal coverage across Peru including highland and some jungle areas, making it the recommended choice for travellers going beyond Lima. Movistar and Entel are solid alternatives in cities. SIMs are sold at airports, phone shops, and supermarkets; you need your passport to register. Airalo eSIM is a convenient option to activate before departure. Coverage in the remote Amazon and very high-altitude trekking areas remains patchy regardless of carrier — download offline maps before heading off-grid.

Peru operates on 220 volts at 60 Hz, which is a somewhat unusual combination — the voltage matches Europe and most of South America but the frequency matches North America. Type A (two flat parallel pins) and Type C (two round pins) sockets are both common. North American visitors with 110V devices need a voltage converter in addition to a plug adapter unless their device is dual-voltage (check the label). Most modern electronics (laptops, phone chargers, cameras) are dual-voltage 100–240V and need only a physical plug adapter.

Lima's most dangerous scam is pirate taxi express kidnapping — victims are forced to withdraw cash from ATMs at gunpoint; always use ride-hailing apps. Counterfeit Machu Picchu tickets are sold through unofficial channels online and at touts; purchase only through the official government site. The dropped wallet or distraction trick is common in crowded markets — one person distracts you while another picks your pocket. Short-changing is widespread; always count your change and know the current price of common items.

Lima's safer tourist zones are Miraflores and San Isidro; El Callao (port area) and parts of central Lima at night are higher-risk and best avoided. In Cusco, the main tourist areas are generally safe during the day but late-night risks increase; stay alert in and around the Plaza de Armas. Express kidnapping (secuestro al paso) remains Lima's most serious tourist threat and is directly linked to unofficial taxis. Petty theft (bag-snatching, pickpocketing) occurs at Machu Picchu and in crowded markets; use a money belt and keep valuables out of sight.

Peruvian culture blends Spanish colonial heritage with rich Andean and Amazonian indigenous traditions; the Andean worldview — including Pachamama and spiritual ceremonies — is living culture, not a tourist attraction. When visiting indigenous communities, follow the lead of locals, ask before photographing, and accept offers of hospitality graciously. Coca leaf offerings at ceremonies are sacred acts; participate respectfully if invited. Meal times are flexible and social, greetings are warm (cheek kiss in social settings), and people appreciate any attempt to speak Spanish.

Spanish is spoken throughout Peru and is the main language for all practical travel needs. Quechua, the language of the Inca empire, is co-official and spoken daily by millions of Peruvians in highland regions from Cusco to Lake Titicaca; basic Quechua words earn enormous goodwill. Aymara is spoken around Lake Titicaca. In tourist-focused areas — Miraflores in Lima, Cusco city centre, and Machu Picchu — English is widely understood by tour operators, hotels, and many restaurants. iPeru tourist offices in all major cities have English-speaking staff.

The cold Humboldt Current running along Peru's Pacific coast keeps Lima's beaches (Miraflores, Barranco, Chorrillos) cool year-round — water temperatures hover around 15–19°C, making them more for strolling than swimming. Máncora, in northern Peru near the Ecuadorian border, is the exception with warm tropical water and a true beach resort atmosphere, best visited from December to March. Paracas offers stunning desert-meets-ocean scenery and boat trips to the Ballestas Islands (penguins, sea lions, birds) but is not a swimming beach. Peru's beaches are less developed than Ecuador, Colombia, or Brazil.

Traffic drives on the right in Peru and an international driving permit alongside your national licence is accepted. Lima's traffic is notoriously chaotic with aggressive driving, minimal lane discipline, and heavy congestion — renting a car in Lima is inadvisable for most tourists. Andean mountain roads can be spectacular but genuinely dangerous: narrow with sheer drops, no guardrails on many sections, and deteriorating significantly in the rainy season (November–April). Four-wheel drive is essential for jungle and some highland routes. Drivers should acclimatize to altitude before attempting mountain driving as it affects concentration and reaction time.

Lima has established itself as the culinary capital of South America, home to world-ranked restaurants including Central, Maido, and Astrid y Gastón. Ceviche (raw fish cured in lime with ají amarillo chilli) is the national dish and unmissable. Lomo saltado (Peruvian-Chinese stir-fry with beef), causa (chilled potato terrine), and anticuchos (grilled beef heart skewers) are essential dishes. Cuy (guinea pig) is a traditional highland delicacy — roasted whole and served at celebrations in Cusco and the Andes. The menú del día (set lunch: soup, main, drink) is served everywhere for 12–20 PEN and is often excellent.

Peru is predominantly Catholic and its colonial churches — especially in Cusco, Lima, and Arequipa — are active places of worship as well as extraordinary architectural monuments. Dress modestly (covered shoulders and knees), remove hats, speak quietly, and be respectful of ongoing services. Cusco's Qorikancha (Coricancha), the most sacred Inca temple, was partly dismantled by Spanish colonisers and the Santo Domingo Church built over it — visiting is a profound historical and spiritual experience. Andean communities blend Catholic observance with indigenous Pachamama practices; at festivals and ceremonies, observe quietly and only participate if invited.

Peru has two main seasons: dry (May–October) and wet (November–April). For trekking the Inca Trail and visiting Machu Picchu with the best weather and visibility, May–October is ideal, but June–August is also the most crowded and expensive period. The Inca Trail closes entirely in February for maintenance. Lima paradoxically experiences its greiest, most overcast weather during the highland dry season due to the coastal garúa (sea fog) from June to November. Máncora beach is best December–March. The Amazon sees heaviest rainfall December–May. Cusco dry season nights can be extremely cold.

Peru can be very affordable if you eat and travel like locals. The menú del día (set lunch) costs 12–20 PEN (roughly USD 3–5) and is served everywhere from market stalls to town cafés, usually including soup, a main course, and a drink. Local market comedores (food stalls) are even cheaper. For intercity travel, overnight buses on Cruz del Sur or Oltursa save a night's accommodation as well as the fare. Machu Picchu tickets purchased directly through the official government website are cheaper than through agents and guaranteed authentic.