How Things Work in Nepal

At tourist restaurants, a 10% tip is customary and welcomed. Trekking guides deserve 500–1,000 NPR per day and porters 300–500 NPR per day as a genuine show of appreciation for demanding physical work. Hotel staff and drivers also appreciate small tips. Tipping is not expected in basic local eateries where Nepalis eat.

Local buses are the cheapest option but are crowded, slow, and uncomfortable on mountain roads. Domestic flights are essential for reaching remote areas — the Kathmandu–Lukla flight (for Everest treks) and Kathmandu–Pokhara route save many hours. The Pokhara–Kathmandu bus takes 6–8 hours versus a 20–25 minute flight. Shared jeeps are the standard transport for hill routes and off-road destinations. In Kathmandu and Pokhara, Pathao and InDriver apps offer affordable motorbike and car rides.

CIWEC Travel Medicine Center and Norvic International Hospital in Kathmandu are the go-to facilities for tourists requiring quality English-language care. Pokhara also has adequate hospitals for a regional city. Above 3,000m, altitude sickness (AMS, HACE, HAPE) is the primary medical emergency tourists face, and knowing the symptoms is critical. Helicopter evacuation insurance is effectively mandatory for Everest Base Camp and other high-altitude treks. Pharmacies in Kathmandu and Pokhara are well-stocked, but bring key medications from home as rural pharmacies are unreliable.

Drugs including cannabis and hashish are illegal despite their cultural presence in some religious contexts — foreigners have been arrested and the legal risk is real. The cow is Nepal's national animal and sacred; harming, mocking, or even inadvertently disrespecting a cow can lead to serious legal trouble. Proselytizing to convert Hindus or Buddhists is a criminal offense. Nepal has notably progressive LGBTQ laws by Asian standards, with legal protections in place. Photography of military installations and certain government buildings is prohibited.

The tourist police hotline (1144) is specifically staffed to assist foreign visitors and can communicate in English. For trekking emergencies, Nepal Police (100) and CIWEC hospital (+977 1 4435232) are primary contacts. Helicopter rescue is coordinated through your trekking agency or directly with rescue companies — your travel insurer's 24-hour emergency line is also critical to have saved before you trek. Mobile coverage is unreliable above certain altitudes, so satellite communicators (Garmin inReach) are used by experienced trekkers.

Nepal's religious sites — Hindu temples and Buddhist stupas — require modest dress as a sign of respect; sleeveless tops and shorts above the knee are inappropriate. Tourist hubs like Thamel in Kathmandu are very casual, and Western dress is widely accepted in non-religious settings. Never point your feet toward altars, deities, or sacred objects, and avoid touching religious objects unless invited. On treks, practical layering gear is appropriate for all settings along the route.

Nepal has a lively local beer culture — Everest and Gorkha are the main commercial lagers. Tongba (hot millet beer sipped through a straw), raksi (home-brewed grain spirit), and chhaang (fermented barley or millet drink) are traditional Himalayan beverages found on trekking routes and in mountain communities. Alcohol is freely available in tourist-oriented restaurants and bars in Kathmandu and Pokhara. On certain Hindu holy days, alcohol sales may be restricted or closed even in tourist areas.

In Thamel and tourist markets throughout Kathmandu and Pokhara, virtually every price is negotiable except in supermarkets and government-fixed-price establishments. Trekking gear rental, souvenir shopping, and taxi fares are all subject to negotiation. The process is generally friendly rather than confrontational — smile, counter-offer respectfully, and be prepared to walk away. Fixed prices are usually displayed in pharmacies, ticketed attractions, and chain stores.

Nepal's mountain landscapes, stupas, and street life make it one of Asia's great photography destinations, and outdoor shooting is broadly welcome. However, the interiors of most Hindu temples and Buddhist shrine rooms prohibit cameras. At Pashupatinath, non-Hindus are restricted to the outer areas and must not photograph the inner sanctum. Military checkpoints and certain government buildings are strict no-photography zones. Always ask permission before photographing individuals, particularly in religious or ceremonial settings.

Nepal follows its own calendar system (Bikram Sambat, currently 2081/2082) and its own weekly rest day: Saturday. Tourists expecting Sunday closures will be surprised to find government offices, banks, and many services fully operational on Sunday. Major festivals including Dashain and Tihar cause widespread closures for days at a time across the country. Trekking agencies, tourist restaurants, and shops in tourist hubs typically operate seven days a week during the trekking season (October–November and March–May).

The meter in most Kathmandu taxis is technically required but widely ignored; drivers will quote a fixed price, often inflated for obvious tourists. Pathao (motorbike and car) and InDriver (car) are local ride-hailing apps that show upfront prices and work well in both Kathmandu and Pokhara, cutting through the negotiation. At Tribhuvan International Airport, use the official pre-paid taxi desk inside the arrivals hall to get a fixed fair fare. Motorbike taxis through Pathao are the fastest way to navigate Kathmandu's notorious traffic.

Tap water throughout Nepal is not safe to drink and can cause serious gastrointestinal illness. In Kathmandu and Pokhara, refill stations selling filtered water are widely available and far cheaper and more eco-friendly than single-use plastic bottles. On treks, boil water from streams or use purification tablets and a filter; most teahouses charge a small fee for boiled water. Altitude dramatically increases dehydration risk — drink 3–4 litres per day while trekking. Avoid ice in non-tourist restaurants as it may be made from tap water.

Daily ATM withdrawal limits are typically NPR 10,000–35,000 per transaction, meaning multiple withdrawals may be needed for a long trip. Power cuts can knock out ATMs, particularly outside Kathmandu, so always carry a cash buffer. Trekking areas above Lukla have virtually no ATMs — withdraw all the cash you need in Kathmandu before your flight. Carrying USD or EUR as emergency backup is wise since they can be exchanged reliably. The Wise card works at most ATMs and avoids foreign transaction fees.

Ncell (private operator) offers the best 4G data speeds in Kathmandu, Pokhara, and main trekking hubs. Nepal Telecom (NTC) has the widest physical coverage including better signal in remote mountain areas, making it preferred by trekkers going off the beaten path. Both require a passport to register. eSIMs via Airalo work for Nepal and are a convenient option to activate before landing. Internet speeds drop significantly and coverage becomes patchy or nonexistent above certain altitudes on major treks. A local SIM is important for ride-hailing apps and emergency communication.

The inconsistency of plug sockets used across Nepal means a universal travel adapter is strongly recommended over a specific adapter type. Voltage is 230V/50Hz, compatible with most modern electronics. Load shedding (scheduled power cuts) was historically severe and can still occur, especially outside Kathmandu during dry season. A power bank is considered essential gear for trekkers because teahouse charging is limited and sometimes charged per device. Solar chargers are practical above the teahouse line where mains power disappears entirely.

Thamel trekking shops are notorious for selling counterfeit or low-quality gear labelled as premium brands (North Face, Patagonia) at prices that still feel like a good deal. Gem and precious stone scams are a classic Kathmandu con where a stranger befriends you and leads you to a 'family shop.' Fake police demanding to inspect your bag or wallet are another risk. Some massage parlours offer services with unexpected extras; book through hotel recommendations. Overly friendly locals offering 'free' tea, a tour, or an introduction to their uncle's shop are usually setting up a sales pressure situation.

Violent crime against foreign tourists is rare, and Nepal is considered one of South Asia's safer destinations. Petty theft (bag snatching, pickpocketing) occurs in the Thamel tourist district and on crowded buses. Political protests happen periodically and can turn unpredictable; checking current news before travel is advisable. The primary danger to tourists in Nepal is not crime but altitude sickness, mountaineering accidents, and traffic on poor mountain roads. Solo female travelers generally report feeling safer in Nepal than in many other South Asian destinations.

Namaste is a meaningful and universally appreciated greeting that signals respect rather than just politeness. The right hand is used for eating, passing food, and offering or receiving items — the left hand is considered impure. Walking clockwise around stupas and spinning prayer wheels clockwise follows Buddhist custom and is expected from visitors. Never touch another person's head, and do not point the soles of your feet at people, deities, or altars. Offering food from your own plate is a common expression of hospitality in Nepali homes — accepting graciously is courteous.

The trekking industry operates largely in English: virtually all licensed guides and many teahouse owners in popular areas like Annapurna and Everest speak excellent English. In Kathmandu and Pokhara, menus, signs, and service staff in tourist establishments are English-capable. Outside major cities and tourist corridors, English drops off sharply and basic Nepali becomes very useful. Sherpa guides in the Khumbu region often speak English and sometimes other languages too. Learning 'Namaste' (hello/greeting), 'Dhanyabad' (thank you), and 'Kati ho?' (how much?) earns genuine warmth.

The most popular freshwater swimming and boating destination is Phewa Lake in Pokhara, which also offers rowing and kayaking with the Annapurna range as a backdrop. Begnas Lake and Rupa Lake near Pokhara are quieter alternatives popular with locals. Nepal's rivers — including the Sun Koshi and Trishuli — are famous for white-water rafting rather than swimming due to strong currents. Chitwan National Park has river activities but swimming in rivers there carries genuine risk from currents and wildlife. There are no beach resorts in Nepal in the traditional sense.

An International Driving Permit (IDP) is required to rent or drive a vehicle in Nepal. Roads in the Kathmandu Valley have improved but remain congested and chaotic. Outside the Valley, mountain roads are narrow, often unpaved, lack guardrails, and are prone to landslides during monsoon season (June–September). Night driving on mountain roads is particularly dangerous. Most experienced travelers hire a private driver rather than self-driving, as local knowledge of road conditions and checkpoints is invaluable.

Dal bhat is nutritionally complete, bottomless, and typically costs 300–500 NPR at a local restaurant — making it the ideal trekker's meal. Momo (dumplings, usually buff/chicken/vegetable) are enormously popular as a snack or light meal across the country. Thukpa (noodle soup) and sel roti (fried rice doughnut) are other staples. Newari cuisine from the Kathmandu Valley is a distinct culinary tradition worth seeking out in Bhaktapur and Patan. Tourist restaurants in Thamel offer extensive 'traveler's menus' with pizza and pasta, but local dal bhat is far more authentic and cheaper.

Nepal's religious heritage includes UNESCO World Heritage temple complexes of extraordinary significance. Pashupatinath Temple, the holiest Hindu site in Nepal, restricts non-Hindus to the outer areas — respect this boundary. Boudhanath Stupa and Swayambhunath are open to all visitors; circumambulate clockwise and spin prayer wheels clockwise as you go. Photography inside most temple interiors is prohibited even when the exterior is freely photographed. Monks and priests should be approached with respectful distance; do not touch religious statues or offerings. Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha, is a UNESCO site requiring especially quiet and respectful behavior.

October and November offer the most reliably clear mountain views, stable weather, and firm trails — making it the peak season for Everest Base Camp, Annapurna Circuit, and Langtang. March to May brings warming temperatures, spectacular rhododendron forests, and slightly fewer crowds than autumn. The monsoon (June–September) brings heavy rain, leeches on jungle trails, frequent trail washouts and landslides, and thick cloud obscuring mountain views — experienced trekkers can still travel but conditions are genuinely harder. Winter (December–February) brings cold at altitude and possible snow on high passes but offers crystal-clear skies and almost no crowds at lower elevations.

Nepal is one of Asia's most affordable destinations if you eat, sleep, and travel like locals. Dal bhat at local eateries costs a fraction of tourist restaurant meals and comes bottomless. Teahouse trekking on popular routes means no need for tents, sleeping bags, or camping gear — just pack light and pay as you go. Everything in Thamel is negotiable; buying gear there is cheap but inspect quality carefully. Sharing a jeep with other trekkers heading to the same trailhead slashes transport costs. Government fees (TIMS card, national park entry) are unavoidable but are the same for all tourists.