How Things Work in France

In France, a 15% service charge (service compris) is legally included in all restaurant and café bills. You are not expected to tip on top of this. However, leaving small change or rounding up the bill is a nice gesture for good service — this is called a pourboire. At cafés, leaving €0.50–€1 per coffee is common. At nicer restaurants, 5–10% extra is appreciated but never demanded. French waiters are professionals and do not depend on tips for their income the way American servers do. Taxi drivers appreciate rounding up by 5–10%.

Paris has one of the world's most extensive metro systems, with 16 lines covering virtually every corner of the city. The Navigo Easy card is a contactless smart card you can load with single tickets or day/week passes — much more convenient than paper tickets. Tapping in and out is required. RER trains connect Paris to suburbs and airports (Charles de Gaulle: RER B). France's national rail (SNCF) operates high-speed TGV trains between cities — booking 3+ months in advance yields tickets from €10–30 vs €100+ walk-up. Intercity buses (FlixBus, BlaBlaBus) are very cheap alternatives.

France has one of the world's best healthcare systems. EU citizens with an EHIC card can access state healthcare at reduced cost (you typically pay 30–40% upfront and reclaim the rest through your home country's system). Non-EU tourists must pay full cost and claim via travel insurance. A standard GP visit costs around €25–30, specialist €50–80, emergency room varies significantly. French pharmacists (look for the green cross sign) are extremely well-trained and are a first port of call for minor medical issues — they can recommend treatments, dress minor wounds, and advise on many conditions.

France requires everyone (including tourists) to be able to produce identification when requested by police — carry your passport or a copy at all times. Full face coverings (niqab, balaclava) in public spaces have been banned since 2011 — this applies to everyone including tourists. France has strict laïcité (secularism) laws affecting religious expression in some public contexts. Smoking is banned in all indoor public spaces and many outdoor areas. Cannabis is illegal. Taking photos of police operations or publishing images that could compromise police activity is restricted.

France uses both national and EU-standard emergency numbers. SAMU (Service d'Aide Médicale Urgente) on 15 handles medical emergencies and coordinates ambulances. Police nationale is 17. Fire brigade (Pompiers) is 18 — note that in France, the pompiers also handle many medical emergencies and have paramedic training. The universal EU number 112 works for all emergencies and is recommended for tourists as operators typically speak multiple languages. Text emergency via 114 is available for people who are deaf or cannot speak.

France — especially Paris — has a reputation for fashion, and while dress codes are not strict, appearing in purely athletic wear or beachwear in restaurants and cultural settings is considered poor taste. At restaurants, smart casual is generally the norm; upscale establishments may require no shorts or trainers. At churches and cathedrals (Notre-Dame, Sacré-Cœur), shoulders and knees should be covered — most have signs requesting this and some provide wraps. The French generally dress stylishly but practically, and tourists in full sportswear visiting a Michelin-starred restaurant will stand out.

France has one of the most wine-positive cultures in the world. The drinking age is 18. Alcohol is sold in supermarkets, convenience stores, wine shops, and pharmacies (yes, pharmacies sell wine). There are no restrictions on hours for alcohol sales. Drinking in public is generally allowed though some cities have bans in specific areas. Wine with lunch and dinner is a normal cultural practice. Drink-driving limit is 0.05% BAC (lower than the UK), reduced to 0.02% for drivers with less than 3 years' experience. Penalties for drink-driving are severe.

France has a firmly fixed-price retail culture. Attempting to bargain in shops, supermarkets, or restaurants is considered rude and not done. However, at flea markets (marchés aux puces) and antique fairs (brocantes), bargaining is culturally normal and expected. The famous Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen in Paris is one of Europe's largest flea markets where negotiation is the norm. With private sellers on platforms like Le Bon Coin (France's equivalent of Craigslist), negotiation is standard. Real estate also involves negotiation.

France has strong individual privacy laws (droit à l'image) that go further than many countries. While photographing public spaces is legal, publishing photos of identifiable individuals without their consent can lead to legal action. The Eiffel Tower itself is public domain to photograph, but its nighttime illumination display is considered an artistic work under copyright — commercial use of those night photos requires permission. Inside museums, photography rules vary by institution. Photography of private property from public spaces is generally fine. Police and military facilities should not be photographed.

France has Sunday trading restrictions, though less strict than Germany. Most shops and department stores are closed on Sundays. Supermarkets may open until midday in some areas. In major tourist zones of Paris (Champs-Élysées, Marais, tourist areas), shops can open on Sundays. Bakeries (boulangeries) are often open Sunday mornings — it's a French tradition to buy fresh bread for Sunday breakfast. Restaurants, cafés, and museums are generally open on Sundays. France has 11 official public holidays per year — on these days, most businesses close and transport runs on a reduced schedule.

Paris taxis are strictly regulated and metered, with official companies G7 and Taxis Bleus being the most reputable — find them at designated taxi stands outside major train stations and airports. Uber and Bolt both operate widely in Paris and other major French cities, often offering competitive pricing, especially for airport runs from Charles de Gaulle. Always book via app or use official taxi stands rather than accepting offers from drivers approaching you outside terminals. Unlicensed taxis operating near tourist spots and airports are a known scam — never accept unsolicited rides.

France has excellent tap water quality across the entire country — Parisian water in particular is well-regarded and regularly tested. By French law, any restaurant must provide free tap water (une carafe d'eau) when requested, so never feel obligated to buy bottled water with a meal. France is also home to some of the world's most famous mineral waters — Evian, Volvic, and Vittel all originate from French sources. Bottled water is widely available but entirely unnecessary for health and safety reasons.

France is highly card-friendly and contactless payment is standard in most shops, restaurants, and cafés. ATMs are abundant in cities and towns, with Crédit Agricole, BNP Paribas, and Société Générale being the main reliable networks. Avoid Euronet ATMs commonly found in tourist areas — they charge high conversion fees and often push dynamic currency conversion (DCC). Always choose to pay in euros rather than your home currency when offered a choice, as DCC rates are typically 3–8% worse. Some traditional markets, village boulangeries, and older brasseries still operate cash-only.

France has excellent mobile coverage in cities and along major transport corridors, with Orange, SFR, Bouygues Telecom, and Free Mobile being the four main carriers. SIMs can be purchased at airports, dedicated phone shops, and tabacs (tobacconists). EU residents can use their home data plan in France under EU roaming rules at no extra cost. For non-EU visitors, Airalo and similar eSIM platforms offer competitive France or Europe-wide data packages without needing a physical SIM. Some rural and mountain areas, particularly in the Alps and Massif Central, can have limited coverage.

France operates on 230V/50Hz electricity, which is compatible with all modern European devices. The plug type is Type E (the French variant), which has two round pins plus a round earth socket hole — it is compatible with standard Type C (Europlug) devices and broadly interchangeable with German Type F (Schuko), though the pin layout is slightly different. UK visitors (Type G) and US/Canadian visitors (Type A/B, 120V) need adapters, and US visitors with non-dual-voltage devices also need a voltage converter. Standard European two-pin travel adapters purchased anywhere work fine in France.

Paris is one of Europe's most-visited cities and unfortunately hosts a number of well-documented scams targeting tourists. The petition scam involves someone thrusting a clipboard at you claiming to collect for charity, then demanding payment or using distraction to enable a companion to pickpocket you. At Sacré-Cœur, individuals aggressively tie 'friendship bracelets' onto your wrist then demand money. Three-card monte games near tourist areas are rigged. Fake police officers asking to inspect your wallet for counterfeit notes are not real police. Restaurants immediately surrounding Notre-Dame and the Eiffel Tower are known to significantly overcharge — walk one or two streets away for honest pricing.

France's tourist areas are broadly safe and millions visit without incident each year. The primary risk for tourists is pickpocketing, which is highly organized at major Paris landmarks including the Eiffel Tower, Sacré-Cœur, the Louvre, and on busy RER metro lines. Châtelet-Les Halles and Gare du Nord can feel rough late at night and warrant extra caution. Marseille requires more general awareness in non-tourist neighborhoods, though the Old Port and tourist districts are fine. The French Riviera resort towns (Nice, Cannes, Monaco) are among the safest areas in France.

French social etiquette has a few rules that, once understood, make interactions significantly warmer. Greeting people with 'Bonjour Madame' or 'Bonjour Monsieur' upon entering a shop, café, or any business is non-negotiable — skipping it is considered rude. The cheek-kiss greeting (la bise) is standard between friends and acquaintances — two in Paris, though the number varies by region. At a dinner table, wait until everyone is served before starting to eat. Lunch is treated as a genuine 90-minute to two-hour break — do not expect rushed service. Commenting directly on prices or being overtly transactional is considered vulgar; if service is poor, the French preference is to leave a review rather than make a scene.

French is the sole official language and the French are genuinely proud of it. While many younger Parisians and those in tourist-facing roles speak English, making no attempt at French is considered disrespectful and will often result in a noticeably cooler reception. Opening with 'Bonjour, parlez-vous anglais?' signals respect and almost always results in willing help. Key phrases — Bonjour/Bonsoir (hello/good evening), Merci (thank you), S'il vous plaît (please), and L'addition s'il vous plaît (the bill please) — go a long way. Google Translate handles French excellently including camera translation for menus.

France offers dramatically varied beach experiences. The French Riviera (Nice, Cannes, St-Tropez) features warm, clear Mediterranean water but predominantly pebble rather than sand beaches — water shoes are useful. Brittany and Normandy offer spectacular scenery but with cold Atlantic water and strong currents that require more caution. France's overseas territories of Guadeloupe and Martinique offer tropical Caribbean beaches. The standard flag warning system is used at all supervised beaches: green (safe), yellow (caution), red (no swimming). Jellyfish (méduses) are increasingly common in the Mediterranean from August to September.

France drives on the right side of the road. The blood alcohol limit is 0.05% (lower than the UK at 0.08%), reduced to 0.02% for drivers with less than three years of experience. Speed cameras are among the densest in Europe — fixed, mobile, and average-speed cameras operate on autoroutes and national roads. Toll roads (autoroutes) are efficient but costly, with Paris to Nice via autoroute costing around €50–70 in tolls alone. The priorité à droite rule (priority to vehicles from the right on unmarked roads) still applies in some residential and rural areas and catches many foreign drivers off-guard. At roundabouts, vehicles already in the roundabout have priority over those entering.

French dining has its own rhythm and customs. Service compris (service included) is legally required to be included in all restaurant prices, so no additional tipping is necessary. Bread is brought automatically at most restaurants and is free. A carafe d'eau (free tap water) must be provided by law when requested. The lunchtime formule or menu du jour — typically a starter, main, and dessert for €12–18 — represents dramatically better value than ordering à la carte. Dinner is typically served from 7:30pm, with peak dining 8–10pm. Asking for a steak bien cuit (well done) is likely to disappoint the chef; à point (medium) is the French default.

France's laïcité (secularism) principle means religion is considered a private matter, but the country's religious heritage sites are significant. Notre-Dame de Paris reopened in December 2024 after the 2019 fire — entry remains free and dress code (covered shoulders and knees) is enforced. Sacré-Cœur on Montmartre maintains a strict dress code and a reverential atmosphere; shoulders and knees must be covered and silence is expected inside. The Grande Mosquée de Paris welcomes non-Muslim visitors on guided tours. Paris's Marais district is historically the Jewish quarter with active synagogues. Chartres Cathedral and Mont Saint-Michel are major pilgrimage sites with similar dress expectations.

France's climate varies significantly by region. Paris and northern France have a temperate oceanic climate — spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October) offer the best combination of pleasant weather and manageable crowds. July and August bring peak heat and peak tourism; many Parisian restaurants and small businesses close in August as locals take their own holidays. The French Riviera is at its best June through September with warm Mediterranean sunshine. The Loire Valley is ideal in spring for château visits. The Alps and Pyrenees offer skiing from December to March. Alsace's Christmas markets, particularly in Strasbourg, run November through December and are spectacular.

France can be expensive but has a rich culture of affordable pleasures. The formule du midi (set lunch) offers three courses at the same restaurants that charge double in the evening. Assembling a picnic from a boulangerie, fromagerie, and charcutier and eating in one of Paris's parks is one of the great budget pleasures and entirely in keeping with French culture. The Paris Museum Pass covers entry to 50+ museums and monuments and pays for itself in two days. All French national museums (the Louvre, Musée d'Orsay, etc.) offer free entry on the first Sunday of each month. The Vélib' bike-share system in Paris is cheap for short rides and covers the city comprehensively.