How Things Work in Egypt

Baksheesh is not optional in Egypt — it is a social institution. Tip bathroom attendants, hotel staff, guards who unlock extra rooms at ancient sites, and anyone who takes your photo. At restaurants, 10–15% is standard. For small services such as someone carrying bags or pointing out directions, 10–20 EGP is appropriate. Failing to tip can cause genuine offence and may result in poor service for the rest of your visit.

Cairo's Metro has three lines, runs cheaply and frequently, but gets extremely crowded during peak hours — there are women-only carriages for comfort and safety. Uber and Careem (the dominant ride-hailing app in the Middle East) are far preferable to hailing local black-and-white taxis, which rarely use meters. For intercity travel, sleeper trains connect Cairo to Luxor and Aswan overnight; domestic EgyptAir flights cover longer distances quickly. Microbuses are used by locals but routes are confusing for tourists.

Cairo has several reliable private hospitals for tourists, including As-Salam International Hospital and Cairo Medical Center, with English-speaking staff. Red Sea resort towns such as Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh have dive centres with hyperbaric chambers for diving emergencies. Pharmacies (eczane) are extremely common across the country and many medications available by prescription elsewhere can be bought over the counter. Outside major cities and tourist hubs, medical facilities are severely limited, making evacuation insurance critical.

Drug laws are extremely strict — possession of even small amounts can result in lengthy prison sentences. Photographing military installations, police officers, bridges, airports, embassies, and government buildings is prohibited by law and tourists have been arrested for it. LGBTQ+ relationships are illegal and actively prosecuted, with undercover police operations reported on dating apps. Publicly criticising the president or government can lead to detention under broad cybercrime and anti-terrorism laws. Dual nationals should be aware that Egyptian authorities may treat them primarily as Egyptian citizens.

Egypt has a dedicated Tourist Police line (126) specifically for assistance to foreign visitors — they typically have more English-speaking operators than the regular police line (122). Response times outside major tourist areas can be slow, so private hospital ambulances are often faster than the national service. For diving emergencies on the Red Sea, most dive centres have direct lines to hyperbaric chambers. Save all emergency numbers and your hotel's address in your phone before heading out.

Egypt is a conservative Muslim-majority country and modest dress is genuinely important outside resort areas. Women should cover shoulders and knees when walking in cities, visiting markets, or entering any religious site. At mosques, women must cover their hair and wear loose full-length clothing — robes and scarves are usually available at the entrance. Men should avoid wearing shorts in mosques and in Upper Egypt (Luxor, Aswan). At Red Sea resorts (Hurghada, Sharm el-Sheikh) and Mediterranean beaches, standard swimwear is completely acceptable.

Egypt is relatively liberal compared to some Muslim-majority countries regarding alcohol, but it is not freely available everywhere. Licensed hotels, tourist-oriented restaurants, beach resorts, and some supermarkets sell beer and spirits. Local Egyptian beers Stella and Sakkara are widely available; imported spirits and wine are sold at licensed bottle shops such as the Drinkies chain, which also delivers. Most neighbourhood restaurants and food stalls do not serve alcohol. The legal drinking age is 21. During Ramadan, alcohol sales are significantly restricted — many licensed venues suspend sales during daylight hours.

Haggling is a central part of commerce and social interaction in Egypt. Starting at 20–30% of the first asking price is a reasonable opening — the final agreed price is typically somewhere in the middle. Khan el-Khalili in Cairo is the most famous bazaar, but bargaining is expected everywhere from roadside stalls to spice markets to carriage drivers in Luxor. Supermarkets, pharmacies, and chain restaurants are fixed price. Treat it as friendly social interaction rather than a confrontation — smiling and being willing to walk away are your two most powerful tools.

Photography at the Pyramids of Giza and most ancient sites is freely permitted from the outside, though the interiors of some pyramids require an additional ticket. The serious restrictions apply to anything connected with the state: military installations, soldiers, police officers, government buildings, bridges, ports, airports, embassies, and official vehicles are all off-limits under Egyptian law. Enforcement is real and arrests of tourists for accidental photographs have occurred. Always ask permission before photographing people, particularly women in conservative areas and inside mosques.

Egypt's official working week runs Sunday to Thursday, with Friday and Saturday as the weekend. Friday morning is reserved for Jumu'ah (Friday prayer) and most government offices, many banks, and local businesses close for several hours. Tourist attractions are generally open every day of the week. Ramadan dramatically affects all opening hours — restaurants open after sunset, businesses run reduced daytime hours, and alcohol sales are restricted. Public holidays such as Islamic New Year, Eid al-Fitr, and Eid al-Adha also cause widespread closures for several days.

Uber and Careem operate extensively in Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor, Hurghada, and most tourist centres. Both apps work the same way as elsewhere — price is fixed before booking and payment can be in-app. Local black-and-white Cairo taxis and green-and-white taxis rarely use meters; drivers routinely quote inflated prices to tourists, and arguments over fares at the destination are common. Airport arrivals should use official white airport taxi stands rather than drivers who approach inside the terminal. For very short distances in tourist towns, tuk-tuks are common and fares should be negotiated beforehand.

Tap water in Egypt is chlorinated but not safe to drink for tourists; the local bacterial content routinely causes gastrointestinal illness in visitors. Bottled water is inexpensive (3–5 EGP for a 1.5L bottle at local shops) and available everywhere. Always check that the seal is intact before drinking. Ice in local cafes and street-food stalls carries the same risk as tap water — only trust ice served in four- or five-star hotels and tourist restaurants. When self-catering in an apartment, use bottled or filtered water for cooking vegetables and brushing teeth.

Cash is king in Egypt. A very large proportion of shops, street vendors, local restaurants, and transport require cash payment. The most reliable ATMs for international cards are CIB (Commercial International Bank) and Banque Misr, found in airports, shopping malls, and city centres. Exchange rates at official exchange offices (bureau de change) are better than at hotel desks. Carrying a backup stash of USD or EUR is sensible given the Egyptian Pound's history of significant devaluation — dollars and euros are widely accepted as a backup in tourist areas. Inform your bank before travelling to avoid cards being blocked.

Egypt has three main mobile operators: Vodafone Egypt, Orange Egypt, and Etisalat (branded as e&). All three sell tourist SIM cards with data bundles at Cairo International Airport arrivals. A 30-day tourist data package with 20–30 GB of data typically costs 150–300 EGP. You must present your passport to register the SIM — registration is mandatory by law. 4G coverage is good in Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor, Aswan, and all major resort areas; connectivity drops in the deep desert. VoIP calls (WhatsApp, Skype) are sometimes throttled or blocked intermittently — a VPN resolves this.

The standard Egyptian socket accepts Type C (two round pins, Europlug) and Type F (two round pins with grounding clips, Schuko) plugs. The voltage is 220V at 50Hz — the same as Europe. US and Canadian visitors (who use 110V/60Hz) need both a plug adapter and a voltage converter for devices that are not dual-voltage; most modern phone chargers, laptops, and camera chargers are dual-voltage (check for '100–240V' on the label). UK visitors (Type G, three rectangular pins) need an adapter. Power cuts are occasional in older parts of Cairo and in Upper Egypt.

The most common scams targeting tourists include: the 'closed today' redirect (a stranger tells you a site is closed and offers to take you to a cousin's shop — it is never closed); the camel or horse ride price-switch at the Pyramids (a price is agreed, then dramatically increased at the end or a return trip is demanded); fake papyrus and perfume sold as authentic; 'free' papyrus factory tours that apply intense pressure to buy; and official-looking individuals demanding fees that do not exist. These scams are persistent, professional, and aimed specifically at tourists unfamiliar with how things work.

Egypt's main tourist zones (Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, Hurghada, Sharm el-Sheikh) have a visible police presence and violent crime against tourists is rare. Petty theft such as pickpocketing exists in crowded areas like markets and Metro stations. Sexual harassment of women (verbal and sometimes physical) is unfortunately common in public spaces, and solo female travellers should be prepared for persistent unwanted attention, particularly in Cairo. The Sinai Peninsula requires careful research before visiting — the Egyptian government restricts access to some areas, and some foreign governments advise against all or all-but-essential travel to parts of North Sinai.

Egyptian hospitality (karam) is a source of national pride. When offered tea or coffee in a shop or home, accepting is a social grace — refusing is mildly rude. Always use the right hand for eating, giving money, and accepting gifts; the left hand is considered unclean. During Friday prayer time (roughly noon on Fridays), expect some streets near mosques to be crowded and certain businesses to pause. During Ramadan, avoid eating, drinking, or smoking in public during daylight — this applies to non-Muslim tourists too and carries legal consequences. The greeting 'As-salamu alaykum' (peace be upon you) is appreciated and shows respect.

Egyptian Arabic is the local dialect and differs notably from Modern Standard Arabic. In tourist areas, hotels, and restaurants, English is commonly spoken and understood. French speakers will find some comprehension in parts of Upper Egypt and among older educated Egyptians due to historical French influence. The two most useful phrases for any tourist are 'shukran' (شكراً — thank you) and 'la shukran' (لا شكراً — no thank you), which is invaluable for politely but firmly declining persistent vendors. A few more words of Arabic will almost always be met with delight and warmth from locals.

Egypt's Red Sea coast is one of the world's premier diving and snorkelling destinations, with warm clear water, vibrant coral reefs, and diverse marine life. Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh are the main resort hubs with hundreds of dive centres and well-developed beach infrastructure. The Mediterranean coast (Alexandria, Marsa Matruh) is less developed and more popular with domestic tourists. Jellyfish blooms occur seasonally in the Red Sea, typically in late summer; some Mediterranean beaches have strong currents that are not always marked. Red Sea resorts have lifeguards at hotel beaches but public beaches may not.

Egypt drives on the right side of the road. Cairo traffic is notoriously anarchic — lane markings are treated as suggestions, horn-use is constant, and pedestrian crossings are largely symbolic. Tourists are strongly advised against self-driving in Cairo. Intercity driving is more manageable on major highways, though road quality varies significantly outside major routes. An International Driving Permit (IDP) is required alongside your home licence. The Sinai Peninsula roads require checking current travel advisories before use. Night driving outside cities is particularly hazardous due to poor lighting and animals on roads.

Egyptian cuisine is rich, filling, and excellent value. The national dish koshari — a comforting bowl of rice, lentils, pasta, crispy onions, and spiced tomato sauce — costs 20–40 EGP at dedicated koshari restaurants and is arguably the best budget meal in the Middle East. Ful medames (slow-cooked fava beans with olive oil and spices) is the classic breakfast. Kofta, shawarma, and grilled meats are widely available. Vegetarians are well-catered for since many traditional dishes are naturally plant-based. Street food is excellent and generally safe from popular busy stalls. Tip 10–15% at sit-down restaurants; it is not included in the bill at local restaurants.

Egypt has an extraordinary range of religious sites — Islamic mosques, ancient pharaonic temples, Coptic Christian churches, and Jewish synagogues. At mosques, shoes must be removed at the entrance, women must cover their hair and wear loose clothing covering arms and legs, and men must cover their knees. Al-Azhar Mosque and the Mohamed Ali Mosque strictly enforce this — long robes and scarves are provided at the gate but wearing your own is preferred. Coptic churches (such as the Hanging Church in Cairo) require modest dress but not head covering. Ancient pharaonic temples like Karnak and Abu Simbel are secular archaeological sites, but quiet respectful behaviour is expected.

Egypt is warm and sunny almost year-round, which is part of its appeal. The ideal travel window is October through April, when daytime temperatures in Cairo are 18–28°C and sites like Luxor and Aswan are hot but manageable (30–35°C). June through September sees temperatures in Upper Egypt regularly exceed 45°C — sightseeing at Luxor or the Valley of the Kings in July is genuinely dangerous. The Red Sea coast is excellent year-round for beach and diving, with water temperatures staying comfortable even in winter. Sinai desert nights in December and January can be surprisingly cold (near 0°C), requiring warm layers. Cairo experiences occasional cool, foggy weather in December and January.

Egypt offers exceptional value for money by global standards, especially for accommodation, food, and entry fees. Koshari restaurants charge 20–40 EGP for a huge, filling meal. The Cairo Metro costs 8–15 EGP per journey regardless of distance. Buying bottled water from local grocery shops rather than tourist kiosks saves 200–400% instantly. Entry to the Egyptian Museum costs considerably less if booked directly than through combined guided tours. Felucca rides on the Nile and horse-carriage rides in Luxor are negotiable and can be secured for a fraction of the initial asking price. Using Wise or a fee-free card for ATM withdrawals saves on exchange fees.